Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Old Tbilisi - Walking Tour

Founded in the 5th century Tbilisi is one of the ancient cities of the world. As the capital of Georgia, Tbilisi is a significant economic, social, and cultural centre in the country. Located strategically at the crossroads between Europe and Asia and lying along the historic Silk Road routes, Tbilisi is believed to be one of the most picturesque cities of the former Soviet Union. Tbilisi is a multicultural city, historically known for religious tolerance. This is especially evident in the city’s Old Town, where a Mosque, Synagogue and Eastern and Oriental Orthodox Churches can all be found within less than 500 meters from each other.
Tbilisians are especially fond of the story of the foundation of the city. According to legend King Vakhtang Gorgasali went hunting in the heavily wooded region with a falcon. The King's falcon caught a pheasant during the hunt and both birds fell into a nearby hot spring. King Vakhtang became so impressed when both birds got cooked in the hot springs  that he decreed to cut down the forest and build a city on that very spot. Accordingly, the city’s name derives from the Georgian word for “warm” (tbili). 
 
Baratashvili Street
Start your walk from Baratashvili Street. It is a Street of contrasts. To the left there are modern buildings and  to the right residential galleried houses decorated with beautiful balconies in the national style. There are well preserved fragments of an old defensive wall with towers of ancient Tbilisi. While descending the Baratashvili Street, on the embankment, between Baratashvili and Shavteli streets you are attracted by a multicolored building of Tbilisi Doll Museum. The fund of the museum possesses more than 2000 unique exhibits.

Anchiskhati Basilica
To the right from Baratashvili Street, near Tbilisi Doll Museum we find ourselves on Shavteli Street. In middle ages there used to be Samepo (Royal) Street. There you will find Anchiskhati three-nave Basilica of St. Mary. It is the oldest surviving church in Tbilisi, erected in the 6th c. Continue your walk to reach hall-type Kari (Court) Church of St. George construction of which was completed in 1710. On the opposite side of the Kari Church there is a Patriarchate of the Georgian Orthodox Church - the residence of the Patriarch of the Georgia.

After Shavteli Street comes Erekle II Square. In 1638  king Rostom built a palace here which was fully destroyed during Aga-Mahomet-Khan invasion in 1795. At the times of Russian Kingdom, approximately at 1870, at the place of the King Rostom's Palace, the Governor's Palace was constructed which is the historical monument of cultural heritage. After full restoration-adaptation it represents deluxe level mixed function Business Center King Rostom's Palace. The space at King Rostom’s Palace is defined for offices, boutiques, residential spaces. Next to the King Rostom's Palace you will find still existing historical baths built by King Rostom in 17th c. From Erekle II square begins the wonderful  Street named after Erekle the Second, Grapevines "Izabella" grow directly on this Street. Erekle II Street is a great way to wander around the local art galleries and souvenir shops with a chance to refuel in one of the area's many cafes.

Erekle II Street 
Via Erekle the Second Street we get to Sioni Street, where one of the famous memorials in the old city - Sioni Church (13th c.) is located. Sioni Church was the the seat of Catholicos-Patriarch of All Georgia until the Holy Trinity Cathedral was consecrated in 2004. Next to the Sioni charch you can observe a building of Karvasla which used to be one of the largest in Tbilisi caravanserais  at the beginning of the 19th century. Now it is a museum of the History of Tbilisi. Just opposite the Karvasla there is another building of  the former caravanserai, which houses Tbilisi Theological Seminary.

Bambis Rigi & Chardin Street
After Sioni Street comes Mantashev Trade Rows, built at the beginning of the 20th century by the order of Alexander Mantashev – millionaire and oil magnate. It is National level monument of cultural heritage of Georgia and one of the most beautiful buildings in Tbilisi. The trading row consists of two houses in Art-Nouveau style. The first one borders the Museum of the History of Tbilisi and the second one divides this area into Bambis Rigi (Cotton Row) and  Chardin street. Bambis Rigi is pedestrian street. There are distributed numerous galleries, jewelries and souvenir shops, as well as small restaurants offering European and national dishes. To the right of Bambis Rigi there is Chardin Street. It is very narrow and short pedestrian street named after a French explorer Jan Chardin, who visited Tbilisi in 17th c. Chardin Street is one of the most fashionable points of Tbilisi. Various sorts of events often take place here. It is the spot where the fancy restaurants, café-bars are located. This spot features the best galleries and souvenir shops, where something interesting is always found for everybody and especially for the visitors.

Metekhi temple
From Chardin Street we can get to Gorgasali square, earlier called "Tsikhis Moedani” (Fortress Square). From here you will see Metekhi temple of Assumption located on top of the cliff on the left bank of Mtkvari River. One can get there via Metekhi bridge, which connects Vakhtang Gorgasali square to Europe square. The extant Metekhi cross-cupola church dates back to circa 13th c. It was a part of the Royal residential complex. In front of the temple stands the equestrian statue of  the founder of the city, King Vakhtang Gorgassali. To the right from Metekhi bridge, under the Metekhi temple there is a small charch of St. Abo Tbileli - a Christian martyr and the Patron Saint of the city of Tbilisi. To the east of Metekhi temple along Metekhi plateau one can see old galleried houses perched on the cliff overlooking the Mtkvari River and creating a unique atmosphere characteristic to Tbilisi  only. Old Metekhi Hotel certainly stands out among other buildings. First built in 1830, it was further reconstructed and rebuilt in 1976-1978. At the foot of Metekhi rock the staircase system begins, leading to romantic by its appearance Queen Darejan's Palace built in 1776. The palace, church and other buildings create a united complex. Today the convent of the Transfiguration is in this place.

Holy Trinity Cathedral
From Europe Squre one can get to Holy Trinity church (Tsminda Sameba)- a symbol of Georgian Resurrection, unity and immortality. Going up Metekhi street we find ourselves in Ketevan Tsamebuli square, where there is the metro station "Avlabari". Nearby we can see Armenian church Echmiadzin named after saint George built from bricks at the end of the 18th century. The road from metro station leads up to Holy Trinity Cathedral, commonly known as Sameba. Constructed between 1995 and 2004, it is the the main cathedral of the Georgian Orthodox Church and third-tallest Eastern Orthodox Cathedral in the World. The height of the cathedral, which can hold 15 000 people, reaches 84 meters, its underground part is 18 meters deep. The place has been chosen so that the cathedral could hover over the entire city - situated on a high it presents a gorgeous view.

Near Gorgassali Square, on an ascension, arises Samgebro Street where Armenian Church of Saint George (Surb-Gevork) is located. It was erected in 1251. It is considered the most ancient of the present functioning Armenian churches in Tbilisi and many prominent Georgian public figures of Armenian origin are buried within the walls of the church. If we keep going Samgebro Street at a distance of few a meters from Surb-Gevork there is a Church of the Forty Martyrs of Sebaste. It is known as the place where St. Abo was beheaded.

District of Baths
From the Gorgassali Square one can get to Abanotubani (District of Baths) via Gorgasali or Samgebro Streets, where there are ancient Tbilisi sulphur baths on Abano Street. Abanotubani is an important historic part of Tbilisi, the legend of the city foundation and its name are closely connected with this place. It is an area from which the construction of the Georgian capital practically began. At first it got the name of Tbilisi and in reality, the city arose from it. The bathes of the 17-18th centuries are constructed under the influence of the Islamic architecture and most of them are located at the start of the botanical garden raise. The galleried houses in Abano Street are typical examples of traditional Tbilisi architecture.

After Abanotubani walk up the Botanical Street. At the turn of the street, in its middle part there is the only functioning mosque with a minaret, which was built in 19th c. Behind the mosque on the same Street spreads Tbilisi Bota-nical Garden for many square miles along. From the entrance of the Botanical Garden there is a pass that leads directly to Narikala Fortress located at the peak of Sololaki range. Most of extant fortifications date from the 16th-17th centuries. On the lower court of the citadel itself, there is Saint Nicholas temple. It was built in the 12-13 centuries and has been recently fully reconstructed. We can also get to Narikala Fortress directly from Gorgasali square by a roadway. 

Narikala Fortress
From Narikala we can get to Kldis Ubani (region of Rocks) by Tourist Route “Narikala” – which ends at Upper Betlehem church (18th c.) on Bethlemi Street. It is one of the distinguished churches symbolically resembling the church of the birth of Christ of Bethlehem. “Narikala” 1,5 km route is especially attractive at night. The most beautiful Tbilisi landscape is seen from the way eluminated by the night lights. Wooden benches and information boards are placed there. On our way we will see the monumental statue of Kartlis Deda (Mother of Georgia) one of the symbols of the city erected on the top of the Sololaki hill. The statue of a woman in Georgian national dress symbolizes the Georgian national character: in her left hand she holds a bowl of wine to greet those who come as friends, and in her right hand is a sword for those who come as enemies. Around 100 meters to the east of  Upper Betlemi church you can see the ancient fire  worshiping  bomon, known as Ateshga (5th-7th centuries), which still stands on Gomi Street. From Ateshga at a distance of several meters to the east you will see 18th century church called "Kldis Ubnis Tsminda Giorgi” (Saint George of the region of Rocks) on a rocky  slope, which can be reached through the Streets of Bethlemi or Gomi.

Georgian & Armenian churches 
on K. Abkhazi Street
At Upper Betlehem church begins a street staircase. In the middle of the staircase the way turns to the left where you will find the lower Bethlehem church (19th c.). Descending the street staircase we find ourselves on Lado Asatiani Street. Walk down Asatiani Street to reach Puris Moedani ("Bread Square"). At Puris Moedani we pass on to Jerusalem Street from where we get to Kote Abkhazi Street (former Leselidze Street), near the territory, on which one can observe peaceful neighbourhood of Jewish synagogue constructed in 1910, Georgian Orthodox Temple - Jvaris-Mama (16th c.) and Armenian church - Norashen (18th c.). In the middle ages the Street was called Shuabazari what in the transfer indicates "Middle Bazar". There was no official market there,but this part of the city was always overcrowded. It was a nonofficial centre of trade. 

Freedom Square
While going up Abkhazi Street we can see Anton Catalicos Street when turning to the left. Here we find David Baazov Museum of History of Jews of Georgia ( 3, Anton Cathalicos St.). Then we get back to Abkhazi Street, walk up and take last turn to the left not far from Freedom Square where we end our tourist route in a Catholic Church named after Saint Virgin Mary (1805-1808 ) located on Abesadze Street. From here you can get to Tavisuplebis Moedani (Freedom Square) where old Tbilisi City Hall built in 1880s and Hotel Courtyard Marriot are located. From Freedom Square begins Rustaveli Avenue - the main artery of Tbilisi. The Avenue was built in the 19-th century. This is the most popular place for walking. 

GUIDE SERVICE
Price:
per person 20 USD (10-14 people group)
per person 25 USD (6-10 people group)
per person 30 USD (3-6 people group)
For booking contact me by email

Duration of the walk
3 hours to ½ day

In addition
Tbilisoba (Day of Tbilisi) the largest annual celebration in the city, commemorating the foundation of Tbilisi is held towards the end of October each year and attracts many tourists.

Restaurants/Bars
Tbilisi is a wonderful city for wine and food lovers. There are many excellent restaurants and bars on the route which are very reasonable, but I will name some of them. On 25, K. Abkhazi Street you can visit "Shemoikhede Genatsvale" where excellent Khinkali (Georgian national dish, artfully twisted dough pouches filled with meat and spices) and other Georgian national dishes are served. Near Gorgasali Square (at the beginning of Gorgasali Street) you can find Bar "Alanis Ludi", which serves an excellent house Ossetian beer and both Ossetian and Georgian national dishes. It isn’t luxurious place, but food is good and cheap here and you can enjoy an unusual beer with an unusual Ossetian khatchapuri (thin and crispy, as big as a pizza and filled with butter, cheese, and mashed potatoes).

If you are looking for more luxurious restaurants you can visit Restaurant Meidani located on 2, Mtkvari Right Bank. With its interior Meidani is Asian- European restaurant, in the evening here Asian, Georgian and Gipsy dances are performed. Also Rstaurant Gorgasali is one of the best ones in the city located on 3/8, Abano Street. The restaurant offers European and Georgian dishes and live Georgian music.

Souvenirs/Wine Shops 
"Fatman" – For those who like old, handmade carpets, should definitely visit this shop on 8/10, Erekle II Street. It offers Georgian and Iranian carpets, most of which are 100-150 years old. "Ornament" – On 7, Erekle II Street you can visit a cloisonne enamel exhibition-fair. "Chardakhi" – In the shop located on 19, Sharden Street  you will see handmade Svanetion hats, bags, purses, Georgian Chokhas (national costume), Papakhs (national hats made of wool), handmade dolls and felt products. "Art-Salon" – This cozy shop on 28, Abkhazi Street offers handmade souvenirs, adornments, pictures and felt products. Also you can viist Street exhibition at the Rustaveli Metro Station and Dry Bridge Art Market.

Wine House “Aleksandre Kurdadze” – This shop located on 55, Abkhazi Street sells products by Georgian wine companies as well as Georgian souvenirs. "Sommelier Wine Boutique and Bar” - located on 1, Bambis Rigi displays the highest-quality wine produced by leading Georgian companies, including the rare “Orovela Saperavi”. Outside it features a bar in the open air. “Tamada” – Wine shop located on 7, Bambis Rigi. The shop also presents vodka from the Foka Monastery made from healing plants.

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